Military Models.
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haha i use superglue too. For structural parts i.e landing gears, I use them. It is trickier but they have a very strong bite.Originally posted by Unidentified:i remember i once brought a small size chopper model , then i make until very ugly , they say muz buy the snip to cut the part so will not have the twist out thing on the parts , i think some part dont stick and got so fed up i used super glue
then holding the finished model up in the air bit and pieces all drop out
As for the parts, invest in a small or big fingernail cutter. So it will be easy to cut it out from the plastic sprue.
Get a small metal fingernail file to remove any extra plastic that is on the part.An alternative will be to use a paper cutter to slowly shave down the extra plastic.
Another important thing to do is to test fit the different parts together make sure they fit well.
Finally, patience is a virtue. The glue/cement may take between 30 seconds to a few minutes to cure. So keep holding on to the parts. If not hold them ith masking tape. -
Nah, I'm aiming for at least a 1/48 scale Spirit. I was told Revell produced the 1/32 scale B2 before but it's very rare nowadays. Anyone can keep a lookout for me? Thanks.Originally posted by CenturionMBT:1/32 1/48 is very big my friend. 1/72 i see before. But if you want an alternative, I have seen a 1/48 B-1 lancer. -
Ok, just a simple write up on filling up gaps.
I use 3 main methods for gap filling. By putty, by superglue and by strtch sprue.
Gap filling is supposed to be done when the 2 halves are already glued together for those who don't know.
The putty method.
Basicly putty is just a clay like substance that hardens when it dries.
I use the Tamiya basic type putty. Using scotchtape, you mask up the area along side the gaps. After which, you apply the putty.leave it there and let it dry. The putty might shrink so you will have to add multiple layers.
After that remove the tape and sand the putty off, starting from grade 320 sand paper followed by grade 600 and finally grade 1200. For grade 320, it removes a great amount of material so sand until the putty is relatively level to the plastic surface. After that you sand with grade 600 to smoothen out the surface. And finally, grade 1200 to remove the scratches. Basicly you sand the putty until it is semi gloss. If you see potholes, add more putty and let it dry (abt 30 mins to 1 hr) and sand again.
The putty method is good for very large gaps, between 2-3mm.
The stretch sprue method.
This is the most economical and easiest method. Take any waste plastic from the sprue tree. Meaning the surrounding plastic holding on to the plastic parts. Break off a reasonable straight piece about 10 cm long. Use a candle flame or a lighter to heat up the center of the plastic strip. Wait until the the plastic melt and start pulling on both ends. The sprue will start to stretch. Stretch it to the desired thickness and cut it out to the desired length. After that, place the stretched sprue within the gap and pour cement in it. The sprue will bond to the gap, filling it up. Leave it to dry and use a paper cutter to level it.
This is good for small gaps about <2mm
The Super glue method.
Basicly pour superglue into the gap and sand it with a grade 320 sandpaper while the superglue is still wet. Keep adding and sanding until the gap is filled. Afterthat, use grade 600 and 2000 sand paper to smoothen out the surface.
Good for small gaps about 1 mm.
for the putty and super glue method, there is a tendancy to remove sirface details, panel line, rivet holes etc.So you will have to rescribe them. Though but fun. -
Anyone tried making a model of a battlefield with SAF armoured vehicles such as the SM1, Ultras and the BX? That will be interesting!
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can buy and print our own? where to buy and how to print? I am looking for RSAF emblem for 1/48 model.Originally posted by CenturionMBT:wah dun waste your money. Print your own on decal paper. -
If you are in the model making hobby long enough, you should have heard of this guy Desmond Koh. He made quite a few local SAF armored Vehicles like AMX 13 SM1, Bionix, M113 Ultra and our famous SAR 21 rifles scale 1:12 or 1:32, I forget liao. Too long didnt touch these 'toys'.Originally posted by tankee1981:Anyone tried making a model of a battlefield with SAF armoured vehicles such as the SM1, Ultras and the BX? That will be interesting! 
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Have not touch my favourite hobby since i know my ger 1yr ago.... Have a dozen kit stack up in my shelves collecting dust! No time for making model. Plus most money spent on ger liao -
try arts friends. Ask for water slide decals. I find their decals thick though. For printing, best is to use laser jet. After that spray dull coat. If not spray dull coat on the decal sheet before printing on ink jet. Then use a hairdryer on low power to dry the ink. After that spray dull coat over to seal the ink.Originally posted by sgdiehard:can buy and print our own? where to buy and how to print? I am looking for RSAF emblem for 1/48 model. -
Originally posted by CenturionMBT:
Haha cool. What scale is that?
Quite abit of gaps here and there.
Maybe later i write a tutorial on filling gaps.
where the gaps ? how come u can see i cant see wan -
Here, the wing to the main body part ...
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Speaking of painting , do they also paint the interior part of the aircraft ? eg.seats
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yes seats and instrument panels. Some even super detail it by adding seat belts, "canvas" coverings etc.Originally posted by Unidentified:Speaking of painting , do they also paint the interior part of the aircraft ? eg.seats -
1. Can those poster paint work or need to use the Tamiya oneOriginally posted by CenturionMBT:yes seats and instrument panels. Some even super detail it by adding seat belts, "canvas" coverings etc.
2. Who can teach me how to paint the camo effect
3. which type of superglue to use beside cement
4. Tomorrow im going to buy a 1:72 to tryout before going to bigger ones -
Some gaps here too. I would recommend stretch sprue. -
where is the 'orchard store @ specialist centre opp centrepoint.' , can giv the exact location
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Ok there are 3 types of paint here. Enamal acrylic or Lacquer.Originally posted by Unidentified:1. Can those poster paint work or need to use the Tamiya one
2. Who can teach me how to paint the camo effect
3. which type of superglue to use beside cement
4. Tomorrow im going to buy a 1:72 to tryout before going to bigger ones
If you are using hand brushing acrylic.
Airbrushing, most people use lacquer. Although i prefer enamal.
For superglue, i use a brand called Sellers. Can be found in mpst diy stores.
For camou effect, if you are using spray can, first spray the base coat. then let it dry. Leave it for maybe 24 hours. To play safe, 48 hours. After that tape the entire surface with scotch tape. Before you paste with scotch tape, peel and unpeal the scotchtape on your table first. Because if it is too sticky, it may pull the paint out. Use a marker to draw your camou pattern then cut the pattern out. be careful not to cut into the plastic. After that peel off the areas you want to spray and spray the 2nd colour.
This is for the straight line effect.
For the blurry line effect, cut from a piece of paper the pattern you want. After that lift the paper about 1-2 mm from the model's surface and spray. You will have a very nice faded effect on the edges.
Remember patience is important. If you screw up abit, nvm, let the paint dry, then mask and paint over. Takes a few tries, but you will learn alot from it. -
ok specialist center is just next to somerset mrt station. Walk in, and take an escalator up to the 3rd floor. Do not mix up the escalator leading to John Littles. You will see a model shop called Orchard Store. If you see a guy with long hair in it, feel free to ask him questions he will readily answer any doubts u have.Originally posted by Unidentified:where is the 'orchard store @ specialist centre opp centrepoint.' , can giv the exact location -
OK thanks , ill refer back here again when im having any probOriginally posted by CenturionMBT:ok specialist center is just next to somerset mrt station. Walk in, and take an escalator up to the 3rd floor. Do not mix up the escalator leading to John Littles. You will see a model shop called Orchard Store. If you see a guy with long hair in it, feel free to ask him questions he will readily answer any doubts u have. -
no problem. Will be more than happy to entertain any questions.Originally posted by Unidentified:OK thanks , ill refer back here again when im having any prob -
u guys know where to buy CH47d model in any size?
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Yea ! got my stuffz liao , im going to start making tonight
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think i came across one at hobby point or minature hobby at marina square. By Trumpeter. 1/35.Originally posted by martin_lim85:u guys know where to buy CH47d model in any size? -
academy....not a bad brand. Try to take photos showing your progress. Kinda fun too.Originally posted by Unidentified:Yea ! got my stuffz liao , im going to start making tonight -
really then must go take alook leh hpe there are some places sell the done up ones with the stallion logoOriginally posted by CenturionMBT:think i came across one at hobby point or minature hobby at marina square. By Trumpeter. 1/35. -
I read the manual and for 1 plane , need to used at least 5 -7 colour
and got 1 colour is to colour 2 missle only , it will be a waste if i buy a bottle of paint just to colour 2 item only ba ? is there a much more smaller ones ?
Btw i 4get to buy sandpaper and paintbrush , ordinary art n craft paintbrush can work anot ?