Military Models.
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use olive first and drop one drop by one drop of black, until you get something black or not quite black. alternatively, use grey. I did that for my jolly rogers tail so that i can do panel lines on it.
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great
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the rotor blades is blackOriginally posted by Unidentified:aiyo , olive or black the colour very near leh , cant see the difference -
NOTICE : hoppy shop at the specialist is moving out due to building renovation
move to where i forgot le -
yar i know. They said somewhere nearby.Originally posted by Unidentified:NOTICE : hoppy shop at the specialist is moving out due to building renovation
move to where i forgot le -
As promised, here's the top view of the RSAF Chinook which shows the colour of the rotors and weathering to the fuselage. Flat black straight from the bottle would be a little too harsh, IMHO.
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Thanks for the pic CJ, I'd say FS36118 Gunship Gray would be a close match.
Hope the Orchard Store is moving to a bigger place. The shop at Specialist's is cramped! -
arrrgh !!!! too late !!!!! i've painted it ,,, the model is done !!!! arrrgh !!!!Originally posted by Viper52:Thanks for the pic CJ, I'd say FS36118 Gunship Gray would be a close match.
Hope the Orchard Store is moving to a bigger place. The shop at Specialist's is cramped! -
gunship gray also abit out leh....i tot of using normal gray and darkening it to near blackOriginally posted by Viper52:Thanks for the pic CJ, I'd say FS36118 Gunship Gray would be a close match.
Hope the Orchard Store is moving to a bigger place. The shop at Specialist's is cramped! -
For those who are interested in making RSAF chinooks, Central Hobby Plus at Meridian Shopping center has a large stock of MH-47 1/72 kits.
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okay , i brought a tank model to try out
and now tryin to modified into this
and this is 1st time im gonna build a tank , so alot of question will be asked
before i start i know our tank are all in olive green , can someone teach me how to paint the track , so it look new and old -
You got your airbrush yet?Originally posted by Unidentified:okay , i brought a tank model to try out
and now tryin to modified into this
and this is 1st time im gonna build a tank , so alot of question will be asked
before i start i know our tank are all in olive green , can someone teach me how to paint the track , so it look new and old -
Sorry for the slow updates. Su-27 build continues:
Before i do anything, I have to add that i cracked my canopy while polishing. Right now i am ordering an aftermarket set from Zacktomodels.
Remember the step that i mentioned the other day? Well it was sanded down and rescribed.
Added a wire to make the horizontal stabilator actuate.
* Discovered that it was all in vain. I had to cut off part of the wire to make room for the afterburning sections. In the end it was glued rigid.*
Preshading commences. This is to "highlight" the panel lines. This is a big plane, so it took me a few hours to finish this.
First 2 coats of paint. I used testors flanker pale blue and tamiya medium grey. Not exactly very accurate, but it looks good enough.
Third coat. I use flanker blue-grey. Some of the panel lines are covered up. I will do some post shading to touch up. Pictures should come in soon.
Did i mention that the airbrakes can actuate?
Close up on the cannon and cockpit. -
the wheel track need airbrush mehOriginally posted by CenturionMBT:You got your airbrush yet?
anyway i cant afford airbrush
dat why i tryin to make it like local style
pure olive green -
haha no lah, but airbrush will be a big boost lah,Originally posted by Unidentified:the wheel track need airbrush meh
anyway i cant afford airbrush
dat why i tryin to make it like local style
pure olive green
try using gun metal for the tracks. After that go to arts friends, buy pastel chalk. To simulate mud, mix acrylic clear to some brown pastel chalk powder den brush on the tracks. To simulate dust, just brush chalk powder on the tracks den seal with matt spray. -
Hi, im new..Centurion introed me here to this thread..so here i am, looking forward to learn and share with the experts here on modelling...
anyway, i'm currently doing a 1/48 F-15E...here are some pics to show my current progress..
just finished up the camou scheme today..was contemplating whether to paint the whole plane gunship gray or to follow the older 2 colour camou scheme..the 2 colour scheme won in the end..also, i wanna fully utilise my airbrush..
did some weathering to simulate the 'chaotah' panels..
the top part
The flaps and ailerons..did some weathering near the joints...
ok, for the above picture..i wanna share 1 way to do panel lines..
first of all, i am damn lazy..i don't want to go thru the process of washing..
second, i do not want my panel lines to be too obvious..makes my plane looks cartoonish..so i experimented and found out this method to be the easiest so far..and fulfill my requirements..
1) spray a layer of clear gloss to the whole body..(since i use lacquer based paint, the gloss doesn't give much effect, but i want to add a layer to seal in the original coat of paint)
2) use a mechanical pencil..sharpen the tip using pen knife..then slowly take your time to draw out the panel lines..as for the lead, i am using 3B..change according to your preference..
3) Use eraser and lightly rub over the surface according to the flow of air(ie, stroke from front to back)..this will randomly lighten some of the lines..and also erase those lines you accidentally draw...
i found out that this method is quite useful..the difference before and after can be seen in the pic above..the left side i havent do yet, the right side, i did the panel lines already..and it's fast..took my total 15 mins to do 1 wing.. -
Hi Unidentified, to paint a good set of tank tracks, you have to understand the kind of abuse they go through. Here is what I usually do...
As Centurion has said, first paint them in Gun Metal, as they are made of steel. Second, wash rust colour onto the nooks and crannies of the tracks, as rust tends to gather on these areas since moisture gets trapped there and theres no contact with the ground during movemen .
Next, wash (yes wash not dry brush) a layer of soil/mud colour onto the tracks. Washing will ensure that the soil/mud looks like it got onto the nooks and crannies of the track instead of sticking to the surface which is what happens.
Finally, using silver, dry brush the track guides and the portions of the track links that jut out, because on the real thing these same portions come into contact against hard ground and road and tend to become polished and smooth.
Tedious? You bet. But from my NS days, thats what I observed on the tracks of tanks/AFVs that have been used.
You can try pastel chalks that Centurion suggested, but my personal preference is Gunze's acrylic weathering line, which includes colours like rust/mud/sand etc. Because these paints come with pigments inside that when dry, gives the weathered models the 'feel' of the real thing (run your finger along a part painted with Gunze's Rust and it feels like the part has really rusted) -
Wow, great looking models there shull and Centurion! Shull your panel line method is the same as mine! Like you, too lazy to highlight with the airbrush!
But I usually use a 0.3mm 2B lead, thats the only difference -
Thank you very much.Originally posted by Viper52:Wow, great looking models there shull and Centurion! Shull your panel line method is the same as mine! Like you, too lazy to highlight with the airbrush!
But I usually use a 0.3mm 2B lead, thats the only difference
you can try ball point pen, like the pilot 0.4 gtec. After that you use tamiya x-20A thinner to clean the excess ink. I did that for my f-5. maybe later i upload some images of it. -
hmm..but wont the tamiya x20a thinner damage the gloss layer underneath?Originally posted by CenturionMBT:Thank you very much.
you can try ball point pen, like the pilot 0.4 gtec. After that you use tamiya x-20A thinner to clean the excess ink. I did that for my f-5. maybe later i upload some images of it. -
x-20 A is acrylic thinner. As safe as splashing water on the paint layer.Originally posted by ShuLL:hmm..but wont the tamiya x20a thinner damage the gloss layer underneath?
It is safe for both lacquer and enamel based paint.
As a general thumb of rule,
You may spray acrylic paint/thinner over anything
Enamel paint and be sprayed over both acrylic and lacquer.
Enamal thinner will eat into cured enamal paint and sometimes into acrylic paints. So if you want to do enamal washing on enamal and acrylic surfaces, spray gloss coat first.
Lacquer is the worst. You cannot spray it over enamal or acrylic surfaces. Straight away strip of the paint.However it is resistant to enamal thinner. So you can do washing without much preperation. -
hey , thx for sharing these tip with me , unlike my other modellin friend who are too lazy to explaint to me , told me to throw the track in the mud so it look dirtyOriginally posted by Viper52:Hi Unidentified, to paint a good set of tank tracks, you have to understand the kind of abuse they go through. Here is what I usually do...
As Centurion has said, first paint them in Gun Metal, as they are made of steel. Second, wash rust colour onto the nooks and crannies of the tracks, as rust tends to gather on these areas since moisture gets trapped there and theres no contact with the ground during movemen .
Next, wash (yes wash not dry brush) a layer of soil/mud colour onto the tracks. Washing will ensure that the soil/mud looks like it got onto the nooks and crannies of the track instead of sticking to the surface which is what happens.
Finally, using silver, dry brush the track guides and the portions of the track links that jut out, because on the real thing these same portions come into contact against hard ground and road and tend to become polished and smooth.
Tedious? You bet. But from my NS days, thats what I observed on the tracks of tanks/AFVs that have been used.
You can try pastel chalks that Centurion suggested, but my personal preference is Gunze's acrylic weathering line, which includes colours like rust/mud/sand etc. Because these paints come with pigments inside that when dry, gives the weathered models the 'feel' of the real thing (run your finger along a part painted with Gunze's Rust and it feels like the part has really rusted)
and also i want to bring up an old question , which i alway forgot , when handling aircraft glass pannel , sometime the cement will accidentally blurred the 'glass' , and cant be remove. can share how to handle aircrat 'glass' pannel? thx
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for that blurred part, get grade 2000 sand paper and send down the frosted part. Den use tooth paste and polish a few rounds to remove the major scratch marks. After that, get tamiya polishing compound to finish up the micro scratch marks. Your canopy will be shinier than new.Originally posted by Unidentified:hey , thx for sharing these tip with me , unlike my other modellin friend who are too lazy to explaint to me , told me to throw the track in the mud so it look dirty
and also i want to bring up an old question , which i alway forgot , when handling aircraft glass pannel , sometime the cement will accidentally blurred the 'glass' , and cant be remove. can share how to handle aircrat 'glass' pannel? thx
In the future, don't use cement to glue your canopy. Use white glue instead. It can be purchased from any stationary shops. It doesn't bond extremely strong, but it holds the canopy in place. It dries clear and is water soluble. Only thing, don't push on the glass surface. It will drop out easily. -
As promised, here's my results for using ball point pen to do panel line markings.
F-5:
Top view of the panel lines
Side view
Overall view
F-16:
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Progress update for SU-27
Engine area done.
Added more blue patches to the paint scheme.